Bonsoir from Juan-Les-Pins!
The view from Castle Hill
We’ve now been here for almost 3 weeks and so I feel like I can properly report back on our experiences thus far and share some photos and stories. I have to start by saying that this has been a truly wonderful experience so far. I was worried that it being winter and a bit cold that we might not be able to do as much but the weather has been very fair even when it has been cold and we’re a 10 minute walk to the beach in either direction so it makes for a lovely little adventure we can do in any conditions.
Promenade du Paillon
Our very first night was New Year’s Eve so we found a restaurant that fit our style and shared pasta made with a sauce of Foie Gras and Cognac and a pizza with Fruits de Mer. Of course we had to order a bottle of real champagne and when the waiter opened it the effervescence caused a little spill on the table and he told us that it was tradition to get a little on your finger and dab it behind your ears for good luck in the New Year. After the clock struck midnight the owner came around and shook all the hands of the patrons and started pouring free champagne while everyone cheered classic New Years greetings in French. I can’t speak to the tradition our waiter mentioned, but it seems the good luck charm has certainly worked in our favor!
Sunset in Cannes
Our explorations have ascended steadily with each place a bigger surprise than the last. Technically we are in a neighborhood of Antibes called Juan-Les-Pin but old Antibes is no more than 10 minutes or so walking down the road we live on. Antibes is a great mix of old charm and the newer resort style of living that is common in the area. The Picasso museum sits in a castle like structure right on the beach and is buttressed by old stone walls that make it feel like you’re in a palace surrounded by the Mediterranean (which is more or less the truth about Antibes).
Night in Nice
After Antibes our next point of exploration was Cannes which held a special place in my heart even before we arrived as the host of the Cannes Film Festival which is, in my opinion, the most esteemed film festival in the world and has hosted all of my heroes from Tarkovsky, to Malick to Wenders. Our first thought when we got off the train was that this is truly the Beverly Hills of the south coast of France. As you walk down the beach you have a gorgeous view of the mountains and hills and then on your right you have every big name luxury store you could imagine. I’ve personally never seen a Cartier or Gucci store, but now I can say I saw a price tag in excess of $55,000 (for a watch no less) in a store that wasn’t a car dealership. Speaking of cars, the mix of Lamborghini’s and tiny compact cars is pretty comical. You really feel like you could be walking down Rodeo Drive. We discovered our new movie theater of choice and were lucky enough to attend the Avant-Premiere of Carol where a local film critic spoke about the film for a bit before we got to enjoy the masterpiece that is Todd Hayne’s Carol. I should also mention that we saw Star Wars in 3D here and it most certainly didn’t disappoint either.
Om.
After exploring Cannes we were already considerably blown away by the diversity in the area between Antibes and Cannes but then we took a train to Nice for the day. Nice is absolutely one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been and the mix between buildings that parallel old Europe and incredible views from the top of the hill at the end of the beach we were speechless. We had initially planned to walk around and then go home and cook to save some money but we just couldn’t leave and went to a tapas restaurant for a few cheap snacks. It was there that we discovered our new love for Razor clams that were grilled with a little lemon and garlic. When they came to bring us our check we had to order one more plate before we could go. Nice has the appeal of a large city like New York but the architecture and people make it seems like you’re in a classic Italian town like Milan. It was only proper that we finished by stopping in the Cathedral in Nice to reflect in prayer for the blessings we’ve had so far.
Castle Hill
Much more to come soon, including some pictures of the food we’ve eaten and cooked, but just wanted to give a quick update and say hello! In case you’re wondering the best meal by far though has been a perfectly cooked John Dory filet with a seared piece of foie gras on top that we had on the beach. I had never imagined combining those two things together, but have not been able to stop dreaming about it since. I hope everyone is happy and healthy, and miss you all dearly!